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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.